There are designers who absolutely love the spotlight, much like the Rohit Bal & Donatella Versaces of the world, and then there are those who shun it almost completely, the designer in mind while penning this is a fine crossbreed between the two.
Sabysachi Mukherjee: Also known as the ‘Magician’ of the designer world.
Not one for a life completely in the spotlight, Sabyasachi Mukherjee, isn’t a recluse either. Rather than be out there talking to reporters and attending page three parties, he lets his ever awe-inspiring designs speak for themselves. Since 1999, Sabyasachi Mukherjee has won both critical and commercial acclaim for his design aesthetic and understanding of both pret and everyday couture, through his eponymous label ‘Sabyasachi’.
Whether it is the runways of the fashion capitals of the world, or the Bollywood stage, or even red carpet events in India and abroad, Sabyasachi’s creations speak volumes of his down-to-earth nature and his love for simplicity. In an interview a few years ago Sabyasachi spoke of the evolutionary nature of his designs, he said (quote): “Initially people thought my blockprinted designs looked like bed covers and they were perhaps right. It was only over a period of time that my aesthetics were honed.”
While most people may look at this quote and think that Sabyasachi suffered a period of an ‘identity crisis’ as a designer, I’d like to believe that it is in the nature of an artist to stop and take into consideration the views of the people who matter the most, his customers.
We think that this very trait has made Sabyasachi as successful as he is. Unafraid to experiment but with strong emphasis on the basics, Sabyasachi is a forever changing brand that has won itself a host of fans. Some of his all time best designs have graced the covers of the veritable Bibles of fashion, including Vogue, GQ and Femina. His beautiful understated, yet timeless looks have also made a mark on the silver screen in films such as ‘Guzaarish’, ‘Babul’, ‘Laaga Chunari Mein Daag’, ‘Raavan’, ‘English Vinglish’ and several others.
Designs and influences: From the man himself!
When asked about his inspirations, the enigmatic designer has gone on record to say that life, and almost everything in it, inspire him. As a Bengali by birth, obviously the narrow, historic by lanes of Calcutta,the 70’s British Raj, the native textiles and weaving traditions are all deeply embedded into the psyche of his design ethic. Add to it the sub continental ethos, with the madness, chaos and beauty of India’s festivals, traditions and festivals in the mix.
Sabysachi’s use of unusual fabrics, texturing and detailing, ‘fusion’ of styles, ‘patch-work’ with embellishments in a vibrant colors. His creations evoke images of the ancient and medieval ages. Of his own creations, he says that they are ‘an International styling with an Indian soul‟. Ironically it is his extremely non commercial balance in an aggressive, commercial and competitive industry, that gives him an edge, by making him so refreshingly different. Sabyasachi places a lot of stock in the belief that “clothes should just be an extension of one’s intellect”. His collections therefore, are for people who aren’t afraid to make their own road, and travel that road at their own pace, unafraid of the opinions and diktats of the world around.
On what makes Sabyasachi Mukherjee such a sought after designer?
Sabyasachi has had a long, storied and unblemished record of both innovation and quality, which goes back all the way to the establishment of his fashion brand in 1999. Some may say the timing of his brand’s launch itself put him in a unique position in the history of Indian fashion. His fine balance of 1980s neo-conservatism and new age sensibilities have endeared him to the old timers and the millennials as well. A look at his A-list clientele which includes Rani Mukerji, Sridevi, Tabu, Shabana Azmi, Aishwarya Rai Bachchan, Deepika Padukone, Sushmita Sen and Kareena Kapoor says it all for the man!
Sabyasachi Mukherjee: Timeline
1999: Sabyasachi Mukerjee graduates NIFT with three major awards. In a short period of four months later, Sabyasachi starts his homonymous label with a workforce of 3 people.
2001: Wins the Femina British Council’s ‘Most Outstanding Young Designer of India’ award, and interns with Georgina von Etzdorf, an eclectic designer based in Salisbury. Returning home with edgier ideas, he begins retailing at all major stores in India.
2002: Debuts a collection at the India Fashion Week, winning rave reviews from national and international magazines including a cover on the prestigious ‘Women’s Wear Daily,’ where he was called the ‘future of Indian Fashion’.
2003: Sabyasachi makes his international debut at the Mercedes Benz New Asia Fashion week in Singapore. HIs win at the event earned him a chance to work in a workshop in Paris by fashion God by Jean Paul Gaultier and Azzedine Alaia. Later the same year, his collection “Kora” at the Lakme Fashion Week 2003 won him laudatory reviews where he used unbleached and hand woven fabrics.
2004: More international exposure at both the Kuala Lumpur and Miami Fashion Weeks. The same year was also the one where he earned the distinction of being the only Indian designer to be invited to showcase at the Milan Fashion Week. In what turns out to be a cornerstone year for him he is voted as one of the ten ‘most influential Indians in Asia,’ by Asia Inc. alongside Aishwarya Rai, Priyanka Gandhi, Sabeer Bhatia…etc.
2005: The Sabyasachi juggernaut grows even more unstoppable. His eclectic spring-summer collection, “The Nair Sisters” inspired by hand block printing, embroideries, bagru prints and the extensive use of cotton and other hand woven fabrics, gets picked up by the prestigious Browns & Selfridges in London. The world renowned Oxford University invites him to showcase his collection at their annual black tie charity dinner fashion show.
2006: He debuts at the NY Fashion Week with his rather ubiquitous Spring Summer collection’ 07 that really won him a dedicated fan following and this is when he started to sell the world over.
2007: Sabyasachi displays his now vaunted collections at the NY and London Fashion weeks and as expected draws positive reviews from all quarters.
2011: Another feather in Sabyasachi’s cap is when his designs are the talk of the town at the Cannes International Film Festival.
2012: Debuts a collection inspired by some of his favourite cities of the world including the straitjacket discipline of New York, the nostalgia of the British Raj in Kolkata,(the 70’s) the subversive decadence of Berlin, the romanticism of Paris and bohemian flair of Barcelona.
2015: Another really amazing year for Sabyasachi that saw another successful showing at the Amazon India Fashion Week with his bird inspired, ‘Bater’ collection. A collaboration with Christian Louboutin for this show, yielded 80 pairs of shoes, both for men and women, all embroidered with the quintessential Sabyasachi embroidery and embellished with hand-placed sequins, were created for the show.
2016: Almost anybody’s guess, but we think it will yield yet another surprise, from this magician of the design world!
