For all those who want to channel timeless ethnic this season, look no further and say hello to Kalamkari! The term ‘Kalamkari’ also known as qalamkari has been derived from the Persian word ghalam that refers to pen and kari that indicates craftsmanship. In other words Kalamkari refers to pen-work. Considered to be as old as 3000 years old Kalamkari goes on to underscore the popularity of paintings using organic colour and dye. These organic colours are made from roots and leaves which are then mixed with mineral salts of iron, tin, copper and alum those acting as mordants.
Kalamkari paintings have a rich history and three major styles, each of which highlights the evolution of the art.
Sri Kalahasti style- This style of Kalamkari painting flourished at Kalahasti which is 80 miles north of Chennai. The Baloja caste (they were entailed in making bangles) were the main force behind Kalamkari paintings that were inspired from Hindu mythology, scenes from Puranas, Mahabharata and Ramayana and the images of deities and heroes.
Masulipatnam Kalamkari- The distinct feature of this style lies in its generous dosage of Persian motifs and designs. Hand carved blocks are deployed to draw the outline and other myriad features. To master the finer details it is the pen that comes to the rescue. This style of Kalamkari flourished at Masulipatnam or Machilipatnam which is 200 miles east of Hyderabad under the Muslim rule in Golconda.
Karrupur Style- The Karrupur style of Kalamkari incubated in the Thanjavur region which was under the Maratha rule. This involves the elaborate embellishment to the gold brocade in the woven fabric which was used as sarees and dhotis by the royal family during the period of Raja Sarfoji and later Raja Shivaji.
P.S. A Kalamkari artist uses a bamboo or date palm stick pointed at one end with a cluster of fine hair attached to this pointed end to serve as the brush or pen.
When it comes to Indian designers treading the Kalamkari route, Sashikant Naidu definitely holds a special place. For the Lakme Fashion Summer-Resort 2010 Naidu enthralled the critics with his line of soft and feminine organic shades of saris and dresses that bore testimony of hand-painted motifs of Kalamkari. Asmita Marwa is another designer who has left her mark with artistic use of Kalamkari. Hyderabad based designer and textile revivalist Gaurang Shah strives to bring attention to the dismal state of the handloom sector. He offered tribute to the art of Kalamkari by unveiling the ‘Kalpavriksha’ Collection at the Lakme Fashion Week Summer-Resort 2015. He showcased a jugalbandi between signature technique jamdani, kalamkari, chikankari and phulkari on heritage heirlooms accentuated with modern designs and cuts. On the same fashion show Divya Sheth who nurtures a penchant for Kalamkari presented a collection of Kalamkari prints on boho maxi dresses, long jackets and wide-legged pants exuding safari-chic vibes. Artist and textile revivalist Shravan Kumar Ramaswamy through ‘An ode to weaves and weavers in Hyderabad’ featured popular handloom and Kalamkari, Mangalagiri, Venkatagiri, Madhavaram, Narayanpet, Chirala and Chunnur Khadi. Chennai-based designer Vivek Karunakaran the self-proclaimed ambassador of the Kalamkari art has travelled to Sri Kalahasti to grasp the nuances of Kalamkari. He has weaved a luxurious sporty line by giving the much sought-after Kalamkari a contemporary touch through his tentatively titled show ‘Sea Biscuit’.
Ace Bollywood designer Neeta Lulla embraced the vintage route by profusely incorporating Kalamkari on her line of bridal trosseau for Lakme Fashion Week Winter-Festive 2011. Her collection melded the magnificence of Kalamkari with French laces, georgettes fused with opulent velvet cutwork. She extensively relied on hues of deep red, gold, Persian green and rust to retain the heritage feel. In addition, kundan and metalwork on brocades of Banaras and chiffon augmented the sensuality of the fabric and the texture. The garments of her collection were as diverse as the work on them – It ranged from floor-length Kalidar Kurta teamed with bodice and sleeves to mermaid tail lehengas. Velvet cholis that complimented lace boleros, churidars embroidered with authentic Hyderabadi pattern of anklets known as ‘paizeb’ and net saris worn over printed petticoats are some of the highlights of her gorgeous and luxurious bridal couture.
Celebrities like Kirron Kher, Sonam Kapoor, Pranita Subhash and Vidya Balan have been great accomplices to these designers by gracefully endorsing these dying handlooms!
Despite the aesthetics and regal elegance concomitant with the art of Kalamkari, it is heart-wrenching to know that Kalamkari is a dying art and needs immediate attention from connoisseurs and the young squad of fashionistas. So make way for Kalamkari in your wardrobe and revel in the sustainable motto of fashion!
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