Lucknow is a city of India which is known for its excellence in various genres. Be it Art, Music, Culture or Heritage, Lucknow has everything in abundance. The city’s age old architectural elegance, cultural finesse, social warmth and enduring love for simple living are always talked about. The bygone era of yesteryears is so visible in the air that it makes you long for the time gone by. Among the city’s many charms and contributions is a particularly well known style of embroidery, the “Chikan Kari” work which is a blend of both the traditional and the modern.
Chikan Kari made its debut generations back. The origins of Nawabi ChickenKari is shrouded in mystery with the most common story being that of Noorjahan, the queen of Emperor Jahangir, introducing the delicate and intricate embroidery to the world.
What used to be the favourite clothing design for the Nawabs of Lucknow and the erstwhile royalty worldwide is now a favourite among the populace of India and abroad. Having practised the art for over 200 years, Lucknow has come to be known as the epicentre for Chikan Kari work which is sometimes also referred to as the “Lucknawi Chikan”.
As the saying goes that the old meets the new, Chikan Kari work is an apt embodiment of the saying with its traditional roots blended with modern designs. The designs of the embroidery are made of a variety of stitches (36 different kinds) and threads to form unique designs and patterns (like the Jali), the Opaque fillings, the gracefulness or boldness of the outline and the intricate details.
The Nawabi ChikanKari work is one of the most popular forms of embroidery in India that has an air of royalty attached to it. It never goes out of fashion and is not restricted to any particular form of clothing but has been used in the making of many different clothing and decorative items like the table linen, cushion covers, quilts, bed spreads, accessories etc. However, the major usage of the chikan kari is still in the adornment of Kurtis (tunics), Salwar suits and Saris.
Says Sulochana Agarwal, a local Hyderabad-based designer who has been into designing custom creations for the fashion aficionados since the last 25 years, “Clothes donning chikan embroidery has been around since ages. The pastel shades like white, pink, peach, blue and green with common motifs like the ‘Kairi (mango designs), Flower and Jaal are the most preferred designs among the shopaholics for their everyday wear. Organdy Cotton, Chiffon and Georgette are the materials most often used in Indian Chikan work which basically consists of a number of processes, namely cutting, stitching, printing, embroidery, washing and finishing.”
From various colourful tunics to short tops and stoles, one can easily spot youngsters today dabbling in various forms of Chikan Kari styling. Modern designs with tradional craftsmanship give an edge to this embroidery style and with various celebrities donning such styles it has quickly caught the fancy of the nation. How can one forget the intricately designed kurtis which Kareena Kapoor wore for her movies Kurbaan & Bodyguard. Popularly known as the Begum of the Nawab after her marriage, she has been spotted wearing Lucknawi Chikan dresses/saris on various occasions.
Chikan kari, which was once the privy of the Lucknawi Nawabs and reminiscent of grandeur and luxury of that era, is also very popular among foreigners who take it as a souvenir to their home in an attempt to connect to its cultural and royal roots. Chikan kari Saris, Lehengas, Shawls can be expensive but can be passed down to generations as they never go out of fashion.
Chikankari -a full documentary
