Weaves and embroidery of Kashmir

Whether it is the majestic shikara ride in the Dal Lake as you witness the curl of water dancing to the rhythm of the oars or the euphoria of skiing in Gulmarg in the bed of pristine white snow or living poetry in the confluence of green meadows, heaping mountains embroidered with deciduous forest and the river playfully running through the boulders in Pahalgam, there is something for everyone in Kashmir! It is not without any reason that it is known as Paradise on Earth!

However, Kashmir is not just about the mystic nature, it is also known for its fine craftsmanship and quintessential arduous embroidery that draws its inspiration from the picturesque nature. Kashmir is particularly associated with Kashida (that means ‘free flowing cursive writing’ in Persian) embroidery which also goes by the name Kasida a traditional and ancient form of technique that entails motifs of flowers, birds, leaves and trees woven on fabric with intricate thread work and beads. The origin of Kasida embroidery can be traced back to the Mughal era that witnessed its profusion and the subsequent adoption by the local craftsmen of Srinagar who made it their own by infusing their creativity that blossomed spontaneously in the valley replete with flowers. This has resulted in the contemporary form of Kasida embroidery which is a congruence between traditional-regal enhanced by local interpretation culminating into Indo-Persian embroidery that has catapulted Kashmiri handloom to the national fashion map. This exquisite form of art boasts of plethora style of stitching ranging from herringbone, chain stitch and knot stitch, however it is single stitch style that defines Kasida work. Pamposh (lotus), Sosan (Iris), Dachh (vine), Sumbal and Yambarzal (hyacinth and narcissus) and Dainposh (pomegranate) are quite common motifs. Among the animal motifs lions, rabbits, wild cats, deers, horses, bulbuls, herons and ducks find a generous usage.

Moving over from weaving to fabric-How can one talk about Kashmiri sartorial heritage without exulting about Pashmina that represents the legacy of the Mughlas, pride of Kashmir and the opulent deluxe of the nation. Pashimna has been derived from the term pasmina which is Persian language denotes “made from wool” Pashmina or Pashm is believed to be introduced by Mir Sayyid Ali Hamadani. Pashmina goat or Chanthangi produces superior variety of cashmere wool but ultimately it is contingent upon the sheer talent of the craftsmen who transforms the raw fabric into everyone’s must-have winter wardrobe! Sozni embroidery is done on Pashmina shawls which sometimes leave two colour schemes of the motifs on the two sides of the shawl leaving the testimony of mastery and skills of the craftsmen. Another understated embroidery done on the Pashmina shawl is ‘chasm-e-bulbul’ or ‘eye of the bulbul’ which is basically a spread of tiny lozenge shaped squares. However, it is the Jamawar weave that reflects the masterclass finesse escalating the worth of Jamawar shawls. There is no point for guessing why the possession of Pashmina shawls spells elegance and fine taste!

Another technique of needle embroidery that is distinct to the valley is papier-mache which is weaved in broad panels on either side along the breadth of the shawl or sometimes covering the entire breadth region of the fabric. Colourful floral and leave motifs are executed in chain-stitch and finally contoured with black. Interestingly, the papier-mache technique is more popularly associated with products ranging from caskets, pen stands, decorative balls, stamp boxes, and handkerchief and tie boxes embellished with the patterns of shikaras and lotuses blossoming on the lake, green bounty leading to snow-embraced mountains and streams running over boulders. Traditionally the papier-mache items are finished with gold outlining but due to the expensive nature of gold the outlining is done with alternatives for those customers who want to purchase it at a modest price.

The beautiful and unique craftsmanship of the valley has found an ardent admirer in the valley boy and celebrated fashion designer, Rohit Bal, who concluded the Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week S/S 2015 with his collection, Gulbagh, which means ‘a garden of flowers’. It is a prêt-a-porter demure collection that rightfully justified the lingering magic of the Valley. Fabrics like chanderi, fine mulmul, matka silk and voile spelt unapologetic luxury which was heightened with gold leaf embossing, quilting, tilla and vegetable dyes. The contrast of rich colourful floral patterns immersed in metallic hues on ivory fabric lent a visual spectacle and brought out the transcendent essence of Paradise on Earth. The designs from the Gulbagh collection have been seen on Sonam Kapoor and Ranveer Singh amongst others.

Another designer who offered homage to Kashmir through his couture collection titled, Gulaala aur Giltoor, is Manish Malhotra during the Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week Fall 2012. The show was riddled with Malhotra’s signature net and dreamy silhouettes and enhanced with Kashmiri embroidery. Mahima Chaudhary and Kangna Ranaut graced the front row to extend their support to Bollywood’s favourite designer.

So my lovelies why seek inspiration outside when there’s so much at home! Going ethnic and taking the Kashmiri route is definitely going to take you miles ahead in the fashion journey.